Pennine Way The Sequel
This is my second Pennine Way trek, and I did it because my son decided we should before I became "too old and decrepit". This is why myself, my wife and son (one of two) found ourselves winding our way North.
Distances include all diversions, deliberate or otherwise and times for average speeds included all stops, pauses, hesitations for whatever reason from door to door. Distances were measured by GPS but navigation was by map.
Sunday 12th August 2007
Been a hectic week and only finished packing at 1am. Up again at 6.30 to get ready and walk down to the station for the 08.54 train. It was late of course but had no impact on the journey. We are now on the Midland Mainline train to Sheffield. 1st class of course.
Well, that was pleasant enough, but too brief to take advantage of the comfort. No free meal this trip. Sheffield station was something of a revelation. Outside there is a fabulous and extensive water feature. Inside there are platforms like 1b and 2c. We left for Edale from 2c. With a name like that I was expecting the Hogwarts express. Instead it was a little 2 carriage electric, conductor controlled, train shuttling from Sheffield to Manchester. For those with rucksacks it was standing room only.
On arriving in Edale we found our hotel (Ramblers Country House Hotel) to be right next to the station. We were greeted pleasantly and were warned our room might not be ready yet. This was because the young son of the previous occupants had hidden the car keys and the room had to be turned upside down to find them. They were under the mattress. As it happened there was no delay and we settled in quickly.
When we had sorted ourselves out we explored the start of the local paths for a mile or so then returned for a pint in the Old Nag's Head "Official start of the Pennine Way". We returned there in the evening as the Sunday menu was somewhat more varied. The atmosphere is pleasant there and the food good despite the fact the chef had been carted off to hospital after suffering a nasty burn. We played a few rounds of cards then returned to our excellent room at the Ramblers for an early night.
Monday 13th August 2007
Ramblers, Edale to The Old House near Crowden. 16.5 miles at 2.28 mph
It's raining,of course, stupid of us to expect anything else really. After a fine breakfast we set off for our first day's walking. Jacob's ladder these days is more of a staircase really, but the preservation work is clearly necessary. However, any fears that this walk has been tamed were dispelled when we reached the descent to Crowden. This is still a leg breaker after 15 miles and indeed my arthritic right knee gave me serious pain. It is amazing how much I have forgotten since the last time I did this 14 years ago. Edale Rocks and Kinder Scout stuck in my mind but I had obviously obliterated the drag through the peat which would have been terrible before the flags were laid and I had forgotten the broken ground on the final descent. We are staying tonight in The Old House a short way down from where the path meets the road before Crowden. It is a very welcoming place and they gave us a lift to The Peel Arms in Padfield where we had dinner. Dinner was very pleasant, though the menu at the Old House looked good too. We played some cards then James outplayed me at pool, though he managed to foul on the black twice! A Taxi ride soon had us back to the house and an early bed.
Tuesday 14th August 2007
The Old House nr Crowden to New Barn in Diggle 14.1 miles at 2.00 mph
Excellent breakfast, the bacon sandwich was particularly good. We got away a little earlier today. First up was the climb below Rakes Rocks then up to Laddow Rocks. This is medium stiff but mercifully brief. From here until the descent towards the A62 it is pretty much a bog walk, made easier by large sections of flagstones. It rained all day and we had to shelter under a rock on the North bank of Dean Clough. It was dry and comfortable. It is becoming clear that I am currely the slowest walker of we three. It's not the age it's the mileage. Various injuries are making themselves known. I wonder if I can make my pack lighter?
Unfortunately our accommodation tonight is a mile off the way and downhill. New Barn in Diggle. A very pleasant farmhouse. By GPS this is a mere 14 miles from The Old House, but we all agree it felt a lot further. Unfortunately shortly before we got there the mains water went, presumably a burst nearby. They had been out all day and didn't know this until I tried to run a shower and couldn't. So it was down to the pub still a bit sticky. The Diggle Hotel has a fine range of beers and an excellent menu. We ate well and included a large and sticky pudding as we felt we deserved it. We went back for an early night but ended up watching James Bond on the fuzzy TV.
Wednesday 15th August 2007
New Barn Diggle to Riverdene B&B at Jack Bridge (No link - opposite the New delight Inn)17.3 miles at 2.05 mph
We were promised a bus at 8.30am. We had got up early and rushed breakfast (the spaghetti was disappointing, out of a can, but the home cooked food looked good) in order to catch this bus. We were early and waited until well after it was due before giving up and slogging back up the road to The Way, it never passed us.
Once back up the route takes you along Standedge and Millstone Edge before crossing the moor to the A640. Another moorland walk brings you to The A672 where we stopped for refreshments at a mobile roadside cafe.
After the M62 there is a short walk to a series of reservoirs. The track alongside this is very easy walking. We stopped here for a further snack. After the reservoirs you get your first view of Stoodley Pike, a large monument that dominates the skyline for miles around. I made a mistake at Stoodley Pike and set off down towards Mankinholes. I realised my mistake once down but we were now well off The Way. This was soon remedied with a canalside walk until we could join the Pennine Bridleway. Not an easy option I should add, this was steep and stony, but it took us closer to Jack Bridge than the official route.
It took us a while to find the owners of Riverdene as they were working on one of their cottages, but once located they made us welcome. We popped over the road to The New Delight Inn which is considerably more pleasant than the last time I was here. The beer and food was good, we read, played cards and pool, but no one had the stamina for a long evening so it was back to our rooms for an early bed.
Thursday 16th August
Riverdene Jack Bridge to Earby Youth Hostel 16.8 miles to Lothersdale at 2.04mph
Today it rained hard. It was real head down and slog with the rain driving at your left eye. Pretty straightforward moorland walking until the horrible descent off Ikornshaw Moor. Thereafter the terrain became more rolling. We grabbed a lunch break at Old Bess hill. Route finding was easy until shortly before Lothersdale where some kind soul had removed the way marker and it took about 300 yards to realise we had been led astray. I managed to twist my right ankle this time but Deb tried to go one better by falling in a ditch. She was unharmed fortunately.
When we arrived above Lothersdale my body said "That's 20 miles" and "Stop!" so stop we did in Lothersdale. It wasn't 20 miles but I was beyond caring anyway. We had dinner in the pub (Hare and Hounds) and celebrated James' acceptance into university. When finished we called a taxi and drove the last remaining 2.5 miles to Earby feeling no guilt whatsoever. Earby Youth hostel was virtually empty apart from us so we got a six bed room to ourselves. We did some washing and stuck it in the drying room.
Friday 17th August
Earby YH to Malham YH 14 miles at 1.9 mph
I got up early to get Deb some underwear from the drying room. Much gear is still wet! This screws up the packing so I rearranged the damp clothes and we have come down into the town to get some lunch from the co-op and have breakfast in Morgan's, a fine little cafe. On return we find much gear is still damp.
The signage of local footpaths around Earby is poor and one footpath was blocked by a new fence. We eventually extracted ourselves and worked our way over to join the Pennine Way at a farm where I believe the signs are deliberately missing. We met some guys who got lost at this point.
We worked our way over to the Leeds and Liverpool Canal and enjoyed a pleasant canal-side stroll. So much so that we missed the turn off. From where the canal turned sharp left we could see a Pennine Way marker on a stile so we dived off and followed the signs. That will teach me to look at the compass. We were going south but didn't notice until we looped round and came back to the same stile. . .
Having sorted ourselves out we followed the lovely rolling hills into Gargrave where we loitered for a long time in the "Dalesman" cafe. More of the same easy, pleasant (including a long riverside stroll), walking took us to Malham and the fine Malham YH. My arthritis and various injuries are playing up so we have decided to use the local baggage carrying service (Brigantes) to take some of the weight off. Malham is a pleasant village, Thwaites "Bomber" is a fine beer and Malham YH does excellent food and wine.
Saturday 18th August 2007
Malham YH to The Golden Lion Horton 14.5 miles 2.26 mph
It rained all day today and so persistently it ran down my arms where my hands are above my elbows to use my walking poles. Walking is a a bit easier today as we are using a baggage carrying service. However, as I have to carry my big camera (well, want, rather than have to) and so I have to carry my big rucksack to which it attaches. Nonetheless I am about 20 pounds (weight) and 200 pounds (money) lighter. I can feel the difference as can the others who are maybe 30 pounds lighter.
Malham Cove is as marvellous as ever. The climb up was short and sharp, taking you up to the amazing limestone pavement. Slippery when wet! We found a chap and two kids cooking their breakfast at the top in the rain.
Fountains Fell is a beautiful environment when you can see it, we couldn't. We stopped on the road just below Pen Y Ghent to swallow some calories before attacking the steep ascent. A little tenacity is rewarded with an exciting arrival onto the top via a gentle scramble. The descent was long , steep in places and fast. It is essentially downhill all the way into Horton. We arrived wet and a little cold, so after buying some food we went to the cafe for hot drinks. For some reason we were told "You don't look like wayers", haven't worked out if this is a good or a bad thing yet! We are staying in the Golden Lion tonight. A pleasant pub with eye candy bar staff and cheap and cheerful food. There is plentiful hot water and places to dry wet things. All is well.
Sunday 19th August 2007
Golden Lion Horton in Ribblesdale to Cockett's Hotel Hawes 13.7 miles at 2.4 mph
All in all a pretty easy day. Essentially it is a long track walk. Slowly up, long contour walk then slowly down. On the way up we enjoyed Old Ing, where a small river pours down a pothole. A little further on is Ling Gill Rigg where a gorge continues to be eroded. We had to avoid two groups of budgerigar-you-like cyclists and passed every other walker except 2 guys who have been consistently faster than us. The track was broken in places by the attentions of 4X4s and indeed we had to get off the track to let two past. They were very polite though.
The descent into Hawes started very well on the sort of beautiful grassy track that is pleasure to tread on. Unfortunately lower down it deteriorated and became damp and boggy. In Hawes itself we found the shops open on a Sunday no less. Creeping commercialisation has hit the North. Nonetheless we took advantage and bought another day sack. We had coffee in the bikers cafe, sadly adorned with fliers about the shooting after the bulldog bash. We went to Cockett's Hotel who were completely unfazed by dripping walkers. We decided not to eat there in case Blues Biker (Quick Quack mate) turns up at the pub, so we adjourned to The Old Board Inn for drink and food. Here we met Luté Palsenberg and Martin Loyer again, the two fast guys we can't quite stay with.
My camera got soaked on this leg in the relentless rain and the zoom hasn't worked since.
Monday 20th August 2007
Cockett's Hotel to Tan Hill Inn 16.1 miles at 2.00 mph
It least it isn't raining, quite chilly though. The baggage handler turned up early whilst Deb and James were out shopping. I had to hurry about to pack their bags, however, they returned in time to add their shopping to the bags for transporting. The day started with a long gentle climb up to Great Shunner Fell, our highest point on the walk so far and one of the highest there will be. The ground was a little broken in places but overall not a bad surface. Strangely there was a stack of bottled water at the top. We drank some on principle.
The descent into Thwaite was long, occasionally steep and fairly hard on the knees. In Thwaite we stopped for a very pleasant lunch in the hotel / cafe. Unfortunately they are not geared up to dealing with big crowds and it took an hour to get fed. The food and drink was very good. For those thinking of walking the way I'll let you in on a secret, the way passes in front of the cafe, though there is no sign to let you know that!
The next stage from Thwaite to Keld is probably the most fun we have had despite some poor signage above Thwaite that had us about 50 feet too low for the way. Not much of a detour except it was 50 feet straight up a slipping hillside then over a dry stone wall. The route mostly follows a contour on a narrow rocky trail passing over a couple of scree slopes.
At Keld it is worthwhile taking time to look at the waterfalls before starting the slog up to Tan Hill. This bit is as I remember it. Slow, tedious, boggy and scenically not particularly rewarding. The Tan Hill Inn looked a bit forbidding from a distance as it is being reroofed. Inside, however, it is unchanged from 14 years ago except the bar staff are polite. The beer and food was good. This is probably the last time we will bump into Luté and Martin as they are walking further than us tomorrow. For the record my arthritic knees hurt and I've popped the blister on my left foot. I have now twisted my left ankle 5 times and my right twice. This instability is a legacy of old injuries.
Tuesday 21st August 2007
Tan Hill Inn to Clove Lodge Baldersdale 10 miles at 2.26 mph
The first couple of miles from The Tan Hill Inn across Sleightholme Moor were a very wet bog walk. This doesn't bother me much but Deb goes all pouty in these conditions. It did improve after crossing Frumming Beck and becomes a track walk at Sleightholme Moor Road.
After Sleightholme Farm and crossing Sleightholme Beck there is a nice grassy contour walk until dropping down to cross the River Greta by God's Bridge. It got wet under foot again after the A66. Names like Ravock Castle sound great but didn't relieve the rather monotonous scenery.
Coming down off Cotherstone Moor brought us to Clove Lodge, our stop for the night. The owners are out, not expecting us until 4pm, but the builders are in. We are shown to a room with 2 single beds, umm that aint going to work there are 3 of us. We are shown to a room with 3 beds, That's better but there is no power so we return to the other room, where there is power, to wait for the owners.
Pleasant chap, boss builder I think, finds us and makes tea, coffee and conversation. Interesting chap. He also turns on the heating which puts a much rosier picture on things. Owners return and are really nice. In fact we have both rooms at our disposal, we elect to all use the downstairs twin room with large en suite to get washed and changed.
Home cooked dinner is excellent and our hostess amusing. The beds were very comfortable and we all slept very well. Breakfast was equally satisfying. All in all after a rather unpromising start this turned out to be the friendliest B&B so far with superb catering.
Wednesday 22nd August 2007
Clove Lodge Baldersdale to Langdon Beck YH 15 miles at 1.98 mph
We started in sunshine and finished in sunshine. The best days walking by far. It was a bit damp underfoot from Clove Lodge, past Blackton reservoir, then up and over Kelton Hill to Grassholme reservoir. It was also churned up by cows which led to an inevitable and vicious twisting of my right ankle. I'm getting a bit fed up of this aspect of this walk. From Lunedale to Middleton it was very pleasant underfoot but the signage for the way from Wythes Hill was poor. I sometimes wonder if it is deliberately so in places.
We had a lovely lunch in the 1618 cafe in Middleton before enjoying the extremely pleasant riverside walk to Langdon Beck. We took plenty of time to admire Low Force and High Force, which shows in our average speed!
Langdon Beck is very eco-friendly but we spoiled the carbon footprint by insisting on using the tumble drier. We are just about to enjoy a bottle of organic chardonnay with dinner. The organic beer from Durham is ok, but I think it was missing some tasty non-organic chemicals.
Thursday 23rd August 2007
Langdon Beck YH to Hall Croft Dufton 12.5 miles at 2.23 mph
Dinner last night was good as was breakfast this morning. I had forgotten to wash clothes last night so had to rush some through this morning. I think the excess cost of using the washing facilities is used to buy carbon credits, I can't think of any other reason for it to be 200% more expensive than the last YH.
It is sunny and the wind is low. Marvellous day for walking. It was pretty good underfoot until shortly before Cauldron Snout where it becomes a bit of a rocky scramble along the riverside. The Cauldron itself was boiling merrily and the climb up the side fun. From here there is the slow climb up to High Cup Nick. The wind was not blowing and there was no anvil. The view was fabulous today. Last time I was here it was so cloudy there was a real risk of walking off the edge.
The walk down into Dufton affords excellent views but is a bit of a rocky grind. The village itself looked great in the sunshine. We booked into the B&B and were refreshed with excellent homemade cake and large tea and coffee. I picked up my rucksack to take it up to our excellent room and I was stung by a bastard wasp! Right in my right triceps. I killed it, pity it is too stupid to realise what was happening to it.
After a shower I went for a stroll round the village and took a few photos. The zoom stopped working after Hawes when the camera got very wet so everything since then has been at 35 mm. Pity this camera normally has an excellent zoom. Am now sitting in The Stag awaiting dinner. . .
Dinner was excellent and the company fine.
Friday 24th August 2007
Hall Croft Dufton to East View Garrigill 15.2 miles at 2.38 mph
Another beautiful day in the corps. Very fine weather and little wind. The climb up to Knock Old Man on Green Fell should have been very straightforward but we had been advised to try an alternative route by a local. All well and good if you know the area but it looked like this variation would take us the wrong side of a gully so we cut back to the official route across country. We rejoined the way behind walkers we had passed earlier. After that it was a simple slog up to Great Dunn Fell, then Little Dunn Fell and finally Cross Fell. Many of us collected together to eat lunch in the shelter of the crossed walls at the top.
The route down is basically 8 miles of rubble pretending to be a track. Very hard on the feet and knees. We were down by 3.30 pm which gave us plenty of time to settle in and wash socks etc.
I sat outside the George and Dragon chatting with other walkers for an hour or so before fetching the others for dinner. The food in the George and Dragon was excellent.
Saturday 25th August 2007
East View Garigill to Kellah Farm 15.6 miles at 2.19 mph
Fine breakfast this morning, I was beaten by the quantity. The walk into Alston was pretty straightforward. We did some shopping and stopped for coffee in a fine café along the cobbled street. We stopped quite a while which made James anxious about our probable finish time.
As it happens I had a plan. The Pennine Way along this stretch is pretty tedious IMHO so I took the team up the South Tyne Trail as far as Burnstones. The going is easy and fast. We watched the steam train set off from Alston. It moved ever so slightly faster than we did. Some parts of the trail were rather overgrown so we nipped over the fence to walk along the track. We nipped back shortly before Kirkhaugh station and got waved at by the occupants of the train as it returned towards Alston. The railway ended here and the walking became extremely easy right to Burnstones. If I had known how wet the going was to be from here to Kellah I would have stayed on the trail. We met a very sad sheep on Lambley Common with a festering left rear leg. It was so disconsolate it didn't move as we passed within inches. We reported it to a local who knew the farmer.
We cut across on minor foot paths from Ulpham to Kellah. Pity they were a) ill marked and b) steeply up and down! The B&B at Kellah is recently completed and fabulous. The facilities are great and the best so far, by far. We have been given a lift down to The Wallace Arms and we can ring for a lift later. What service! This is, however, a service extended only to walkers. Dinner was excellent.
Sunday 26th August 2007
Kellah Farm to Twice Brewed Inn via Vindolande 15.4 miles at 2.07 mph
7 hours 25 mins in total 5 hours 45 mins to Once Brewed
Fine breakfast including locally made croissant. The gaiters went on in anticipation of boggy conditions despite the fine weather. This was a good call and it was wet underfoot pretty much all the way to across Hartleyburn Common and then Blenkinsopp Common to the A69 and the Thirlwall Castle . We had a very pleasant coffee stop in the farmhouse tea rooms there, fine cake.
Once onto the Hadrian's Wall path the going was much better underfoot, but obviously much steeper up and down. Despite some breath taking ups we made very good progress carving through what seemed to be crowds of day trippers. After days of only seeing a few people, seeing ten people at once seems quite strange. Somewhere around Milecastle 44 I was accosted by some photographers and asked to pose for some pictures. The downside to this was having to cross the same stile 5 times in the name of art!
We arrived at Once Brewed after only about 5.5 hours of walking so carried on to Vindolande. We visited this place a couple of years ago and it has changed significantly since then There were excavations underway today and it was interesting to see them working. On return to Twice Brewed we settled in and relaxed in the bar with a well earned drink. James has logged on via the provided computers to accept his university place. . . Later . . There appears to be no facility on the web site to do this. Tomorrow is a bank holiday, will have to ring them Tuesday. Dinner was tasty and the beer and wine excellent.
Monday 27th August 2007
Twice Brewed Inn to Lyndale B&B Bellingham 15.3 miles at 2.48 mph
The morning was bright despite the cloud, the wind was pretty chilly. However, we soon warmed up climbing up to Peel where we took the path that runs parallel to The Way, eventually joining up at the end of Crag Lough. At turret 37a between Hotbank Crags and Cuddy's Crags The Pennine Way turns north away from Hadrian's Wall Path. We took a minor detour to go and look at some ruins that looked like kilns.
The going was pretty boggy across Ridley Common but improved for the most part once in the plantation. Haughton Common was pretty wet and again the plantation was drier. We stopped for lunch at Warks Burn, very pleasant in the sunshine. It was good going underfoot from there, then up and over Shitlington Crags before descending into Bellingham. In Bellingham we stopped in the tea rooms for a so-so cup of coffee before going to Lyndale B&B.
At 6pm we went out to The pub but not for long, all 3 were shut so we'll try again at 7pm . . . We went back to The Rose & Crown at 7pm and it was full of people ordering dinner. We did the same and were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food. The beer was not great, all cream flow rubbish, but the food made up for it and James was pleased to find a pool table.
Tuesday 28th August 2007
Lyndale B&B Bellingham to Forest View YH Byrness 15.2 miles at 2.38 mph
Breakfast was very structured and I suspect they know the cost of a glass of orange juice. Nonetheless it was a good breakfast and the accommodation was excellent. We got away quite efficiently at shortly after 9am but had to stop at the top of the hill to make some University related phone calls for James. His place is secure but we have to sort out his accommodation today if at all possible.
After a steepish climb up to Blakelaw (where James made his phone calls) the way climbs gently then rolls to and past Hareshaw House over somewhat boggy moorland. The terrain stayed much the same across the B6320 then Great Moor to Whitley Pike. At the minor road shortly after, instead of traipsing up and over South Padon then Brownrigg Head, we followed it round to Gibshiel. From here there is the usual forestry track which becomes the way after about a mile. This track continues all the way to Blakehopeburnhaugh. It turns into the usual nasty gravelly mess, but nonetheless don't bother with the shortcut (signposted) as it goes through 6 foot high bracken, thistles, nettles and gorse. Did I mention the snakes? Well snake, an adder, but as is their way it slithered off before we could get a close look.
After Blakehopeburnhaugh there is a pleasant riverside walk (River Rede) during which we saw a Dipper. The YH itself is actually most of a row of cottages which makes it a substantial proportion of Byrness. The accommodation is basic but ok. The shower is truly naff. It is self catering. The food was actually quite good and fair value. Usual cook it yourself and wash up routine but not much of a chore. Surprisingly good selection of wine and beer. Quite a well stocked "shop" (cupboard). Enjoying a bottle of wine then it is early to bed. Up at 5am tomorrow. . .
Wednesday 29th August 2007
Forest View holiday accommodation incorporating Byrness YH to Border Hotel Kirk Yetholm
10.75 hours 25.6 miles at 2.38 mph
Up early and staggered about the YH getting ready as quietly as possible. We left at 6.15am and were shortly climbing the muddy track to Byrness Hill. This is the first, and in some respects the last, real climb of the day. Most of the ups hereafter are fairly gentle. We stopped in the first mountain hut where we ate our self heating meals as a late breakfast.
The path gradually rolls up to Auchope Cairn, passing the Roman earthworks at Chew Green, Dere Street (Roman road) and minor high points (like Lamb Hill etc). From here it is more or less downhill though The Schill is a fairly firm uphill. After The Schill we chose the low route to get down as we were without doubt getting tired. It's a bit of a drag but it got us to our destination quickly. The slabs have helped a lot to make this walk more bearable but there remain many extremely boggy parts. Some could have been swum quite effectively.
Dinner in the Border Hotel was excellent. We spent some time chatting with a guy who was about to start the way north to south. He had already been walking for 6 weeks from Cape Wrath.
Thursday 30th August 2007
The Border Hotel Kirk Yetholm to Grays Essex
Poached egg on haggis for breakfast, yum! Not on the menu but they were happy to make it when I asked. Just before heading north I had booked the return train journey and checked the bus timetables to get us to Berwick for the train. We were standing at the bus stop when a local came over and informed us that the bus company had changed and it was now an hour earlier, way to go to ruin a plan guys. We returned to the hotel to book a taxi. The manager, however, offered us a lift to Kelso as she had to go to the bank. Once in Kelso we confirmed that the bus company and timetable was unchanged for the next leg to Berwick. We then had a fine coffee in Le Jardin whilst we waited. The bus ride to Berwick had all 3 of us feeling quite sick by the time we got off. There was just enough time to visit a bookshop for some reading matter before boarding the train. First Class again, makes all the difference and when booked well ahead not very expensive.
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